La Trinité sur Mer – Auray and into the Morbihan – Saturday 19th September – Day 68
Bob’s watch was reading 7 minutes late (which I find odd for a digital watch that is meant to be synced to all the other digital stuff he has) – so I watched Jenny Wren departing at 0800; we were about 15 minutes behind.
What seemed like an innocuous morning, with very light winds in harbour, couldn’t have been further from the truth once we got out to sea.
As we departed from La Trinité Sur Mer the sun was rising and the fishermen were out in their boats amongst the Withey sticks (the passage out of La Trinité Sur Mer is exacting and quite narrow).
Bob wanted to go to Auray for a while and today was the day! Auray has a bridge with air draft (height to you and me) of 14m at highwater and Boni’s mast head comes up to 14.1m (including the aerial) so we should be fine. We sailed out around Méaban – perfect conditions being a SW 3 -4 for our 17 mile trip and we managed to sail most of the way up to Auray – taking the sails down for only the last 20 minutes of so.
Bagnen Hir – Easterly Cardinal marker prior to entering the Morbihan
We were going up at half tide, so the tide was taking us and the water level shouldn’t be too great once we got up to the bridge. Jenny Wren was ahead of us and when we got to Auray they were placed onto a trot mooring (with mooring lines fore and aft) as they would not be able to get under the bridge – their mast being 18m tall!
Going up the river to Auray
Auray Bridge ahead!
Then it was our turn, the water marker to our Port side said that the air draft was 15m – all fine to go ahead. Meantime, there’s plenty to worry about as one goes under a bridge with this little space above you – I didn’t take any photos as it all felt a bit crazy. Anyway – we got underneath with what appeared about 50 cms to spare – eeek! The Capitinairie man showed us to our berth which was opposite a charming house.
View from our berth in Auray
After a spot of lunch we met up with Monica and Steve and walked into town. We had landed on the St Goustan side of Auray – the town proper was over the Pont-Neuf bridge and up the hill.
The view of the ramparts from St Goustan is impressive!
St Goustan had a port municipal area with bars and restaurants around, what looked like some demented teddy bears sitting in amongst and at the windows (why? – I have no idea)! Essentially it is a very small harbour with little water in at low tide and the whole place is old, with timbered buildings from 16th to 18th centuries. History notes that the American Benjamin Franklin arrived here in 1776 to meet Louis XVI and seek military help from him to support the US War of Independence.
The side streets
The river Loch is crossed by a bridge which has had a tremendous history all marked out on information boards as you cross – the bridge having been built and re-built several times.
Looking up river
and down river
Once across the river we climbed to the main square where a Wedding had been going on in the Hôtel de Ville – Monica explained to me that all marriages have to happen in the town hall in France, not in church; but it is also common to go into church straight after to have a celebratory service.
The town of Auray is quite large with further rambling timber-framed houses and shops in a criss-cross of streets which house just over 14,000 inhabitants.
We came across several artisan shops (I’m always interested to see what craft work is on sale and for how much!) and a truly wonderful DIY store, which we had to prise Bob and Steve out of! We made our way back to the water via the ramparts of the fortifications – a fabulous view of the river and the bridge.
We settled for a drink in St Goustan after our stroll and later booked a meal at the same restaurant and we weren’t disappointed. I discovered a new cocktail: Gin Basil Smash – oooh – delicious!
Main course: Duck
Sunday 20th September – Day 69
We stayed in Auray for another day; we had the bikes out and discovered that Lidl’s was a 8 minute cycle ride away – but we had to be quick (by the time we discovered that it was there) being Sunday, it closed at 1215. We managed to get most of what we needed, but no fresh milk – long-life was in abundance – but unlike the original UHT (utterly horrible taste) stuff we used to have – this was quite palatable. Also no fresh mushrooms. I am now the proud owner of a Lidl’s trolley token – then only thing that works in their trolleys!
Back at the boat, we had lent our dinghy to Steve and Monica as theirs had an irreparable split, just where three seams meet.
Relaxation and a sleep were in store for the afternoon, followed by a shower and a meal out (again) as we thought the next evening we would be in a place where eating onboard would be mandatory (and it was).
Roasted Camenbert with honey – a starter that was truly too big for one – I was very happy to share it!
Followed by a tuna dish – very delicious! 