Days 22 – 24 Tuesday 19th – Thursday 21st May
We were greeted by a wet puddle on the floor of our cabin as a result of the previous night’s lasher. On inspection we spotted that the water ingress was via the hoops that the main sheet (the rope that controls the main sail) is attached to the deck. Once the rain had stopped, Bob set to, to fix it – although in the end, it required 2 people to complete the task. An hour later (why is the access to these things never straight forward?), plenty of Silkafix (and patience) the job was complete. This, coupled with a fix on the mainsail, where one of the sliders had become dis-attached rendered our current jobs list sorted (no doubt there will be more – there always is on a boat!)

Later, we cycled into town to have another look around – here was a mishap! And then we saw Pen Duick III: the famous 17.45 m schooner, with her distinctive clipper bow, which was designed entirely by the French sailor Eric Tabarly, the hull is built from aluminum. The yacht won the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race in 1967. (but I forgot to take a photo – doh!)
We visited L’ Eglise du Christ-Roi ou Saint-Geran – another beautiful church with some fabulous stained glass windows. The church sits on the edge of a little square, with the Mairie (Town Hall) and a rather nice hotel. After a bit of shopping (food) we sat in the lee of the wind, on the beach – the westerly wind still very gusty at 25knts and then went for a coffee.

Inside the church

The Town Hall and square Belle Ile Le Palais
Villa Henri – quite a nice pad!
At 1715 it was time to depart and so we got our foulies on and called up the Port to open the bridge (apparently you’re meant to give 24hrs notice to do this…) As we came out of the port, the 26 knot, westerly wind gusts greeted us, but we had prepared our mainsail with one reef and only used about 2/3rds of the Genoa for our passage to Quiberon and Port Haliguen.
The wind was mostly abaft (behind) the beam and we shot along on the surf, with some quite big waves (probably 2.5 – 3m) in gybe-mode – what a thrilling sail, passing La Phare de la Teignouse (lighthouse) – rather unusual looking I thought and a Square-rigged Tall Ship which was anchored in the bay and we seemed to be back in port in no time. 

Our track – Belle Ile to Port Haliguen

Evening dinner out did not disappoint – well we are on holiday!
Wednesday dawned on the misty/murky side of things, including a spot of rain. After a quick trip into town to the Super Marché, about 10 mins walk away, we were ready to set sail again to another out-lying island – Ile de Houat .
Another sailing school – the French have their priorities right!

La Phare de la Teignouse – not such a bright photo!
Approaching Ile D’Houat.
The gentle WSW wind of 10-12 knots sped us along nicely. Houat is a delightful and tiny island with only about 230 inhabitants. We decided to go into the harbour – moored up next to an old fishing smack from Maldon(!) and booked in at the Capitainerie – I had to try hard with my French here as they had little English, and Bob trying to explain things in English with his French accent didn’t quite cut it! Internet connectivity here was wanting, although it didn’t matter too much apart from not being able to easily communicate with our fellow sailors. We got the bikes out and had a good cycle over the island, stopping at this amazing beach and we watched a Swiss boat which was beached, get off the sands – took a bit of doing! Edelweiss was anchored here as they enjoyed some paddle-boarding and swimming (still pretty nippy I think). There is little going on on Houat – no agriculture – just fishing and tourism. 




Houat’s harbour was very swelly, despite the new pontoons which are apparently a recent addition; we had made arrangements to have a Safari supper on Edelweiss, so to anchor in a nearby bay.
Got the anchor down, all settled and a good evening of eating, drinking, chatting and laughter! 

Dessert by Monica – yummy!
Next morning – Thursday – after a rolly-poly night, we decided to leave just after 0730 in company with Jenny Wren – however, the windlass was not co-operating and it was upon me to heave up all 40 metres of chain. Got it on board and we had a delightful, light-wind sail (NE 11 knots) into the Morbihan.
The Golfe du Morbihan is Brittany’s answer to Swallows and Amazons, but probably on a larger scale, with many islands and very picturesque. There is a tidal gate at the entrance, so it’s important to arrive when the tide floods in, which is what we did. The tide took us along (2 – 3 knots), and the waters around us looked ruffled as the tide disturbed.

We tied up on the non-walk ashore pontoon on the north-westerly side of the Ile Aux Moines (island of the monks). Today it became much warmer and out came the sandals, shorts, suncream and sunhat – at last!
As we settled, the windlass was first on the jobs list this time – Bob found the culprit – a blown fuse. You would think that with all the tools and “spares” we carry on board for that “just in case moment when you need x, y or z” that you would have whatever you needed. Hmmm – not so, but luckily Steve on Jenny Wren did have a spare. Meanwhile, I took the anchor (we have a Rocna, which is quite heavy) and the 40m chain out of the locker and flaked it along the deck in prep to put it back into the anchor locker employing the newly fixed windlass – it was quite a lot of chain!

We took our dinghy ashore (not appreciating that there is a free water-taxi service), booked in, showered etc. and then wandered into town – about a mile up the hill. Small and perfectly formed – lots of walkers about and the bike-hire shops here must do a roaring trade in the high season. This island is just over 4 miles long and 2 miles wide with about 630 inhabitants and is famous for it’s Menhirs (neolithic standing stones).

Des-res near Le Bourg
Le Bourg – main town on Iles aux Moines

The scary looking rock near the entrance to the pontoons…
Later we watched Edelweiss come in, kind of a bit sideways, which is what happens in the rip of the tides. But with nothing untoward; the crew were soon ashore and we met up for a meal together – more delicious cuisine!


And so to bed…
