Monday 25th – Wednesday 27th May – Days 28 – 30
Piriac-sur-Mer proved to be one of our favourite places on the cruise – a very delightful old settlement, where the streets have been cordoned off for pedestrians and clearly the buildings are very old and small. The church, which had quite an unusual domed-style tower had a clock that chimed on the hour and half hour.
The harbour-master had made it clear that we could not remain in our berth for a second night and that we should move first thing; this we did with no problem; but soon there were several boats all jockeying to get over the sill as soon as the gate dropped, including this fishing boat! After breakfast we went into the town to explore and to see if we could find Bob a light, long-sleeved top to save his skin from the scorching sun – by 1130 it was already burning hot. On return to Boni, we rigged the bimini with extra parasols around us to garner as much shade as possible. No end of cool drinks could really keep us cool!
In the afternoon we had an outstanding job… to discover how all that water had found it’s way into the locker. It was fresh water, so water from our tank, rather than the sea. Bear in mind that the temperature was still over 30 degrees C.
I reckoned if we filled our water tank to the brim, we would see if any leaked out. As the water level rose from inside, I began to hear a hissing sound from the side panel on the top of the tank (Bob was outside on the hose) and then the leak started. It’s one thing to discover what is wrong but quite another to fix it. But – we have on board with us the wonderful Silkafix sealant. After draining some of the water off and undoing the central inspection hatch; the work began. First we had to get the cover off and clean this up, without dropping old sealant into the water tank… hmm… so I constructed a “catch-all” using duct tape underneath the edges and this worked pretty well (although I couldn’t guarantee that no flakes of sealant jumped into the tank! Having got it all clean (methylated spirit was involved here), we realised that some of the screws fixing the inspection hatch were pretty loose. Just then, Steve and Monica arrived, having piped a double ring of sealant, I was screwing the inspection hatch back into position (Bob claims I am useless at screwing) but I wanted to keep control of the sealant. Suddenly, I realised that I’d put it on up-side-down; so in great haste it had to be un-screwed and refitted. The air was steaming and the language unrepeatable! Steve helped us by finding a few bigger screws and then I sealed all around the rim of the tank.
Thank goodness for the coolness of the sea and a beach; Monica and Steve had gone ahead of us, and by the time we reached the beach we were pretty desperate for a cool dip which was more welcome than I can say!
Our wander back through town I spied this pretty lace-type window netting – the Bretons are rather clever at producing this although one never sees it on sale, so it must be handmade.
We had our last evening meal out with Monica and Steve and once again the food didn’t disappoint (but I am dreading getting back on the scales when I get home…) As we came away from the restaurant, the sun was setting and we watched the fiery orb sink below the horizon – quite mesmerising!
Tuesday morning we had time for a bit of shopping. Piriac has a very good chandlery and it could be easy to just to leave your wallet on the counter…. We bought a very comprehensive book of local charts as well as some “D clips” and a pack of Magic Sponges. I had never heard of Magic Sponges before and they really are pretty magic at getting stubborn marks off the white deck and sides of your boat. After this, Monica and I went into town to look at the clothes shops; the market was on, (very good for fruit, veg and food) but not so good for clothes. However, we found a very sympathetic shop and both bought quite a few items!
After this, we had to get going, so said our farewells to Steve and Monica, who are going back into the Morbihan to join a Cruising Association rally at the weekend. The wind was light and we managed to sail for about half an hour – but it really wasn’t enough, so the sails were rolled up and we motored to the mouth of the Vilaine River. The tide was going in with us, so that helped and we had booked to get through the 1400 lock at Arzal.
Into the Vilaine River
Bob trying to keep cool en route…
The lock was a pretty hair-raising experience in itself. As we arrived there were already 2 boats waiting to go in and the lock appeared pretty full.
The other boats were not allowed in, so we had to tow the line and hang about for about 15 minutes: it was swelteringly hot and frankly we were a bit anxious that we wouldn’t get in and would have to wait for the next lock at 1600, in two hours time. However, the bridge ahead of the lock went up; the boats that were already in the lock all moved forward and then we were able to get in; people don’t behave very well in these circumstances – quite a bit of shouting and at one point the boat in front of us was reversing at the same time that the boat behind us was coming swiftly towards us. A bit more shouting – some from the lock-keeper – but then thankfully the lock gates closed behind us and the water rose. The lock was filled with fresh water from the river and then the front gates opened and we were released into the next portion of the river.
Looking forwards in the lock
Looking backwards in the lock!
Release from the lock
Looking back at Arzal
Making our way up the pretty Vilaine River
An hour later, we arrived at La Roche Bernard. The Vilaine is a very beautiful and peaceful river and we asked to be put onto a pontoon berth for two nights.
Here is the view of the bridge at La Roche Bernard and where we moored on a pontoon for the last 2 nights. We ate on board – our stores are becoming very depleted and I am impressed that we have only 4 tea bags left and probably one portion of real coffee, some tins, including the faithful Fray Bentos Pie – so pleased with the vitalling situation.
Wednesday 27th May – Day 30
The night was punctuated by the sound of a nearing mosquito… now and again and lo and behold, in the morning several bites. Swallow an antihistamine, slap on the Antisan – then things aren’t too bad in the itchy department! Of course – a fresh water river is bound to have many mozzies.
Today the focus was on the washing, as we didn’t want to bring this home and the Capitainerie informed us that we could use the Laverie in the local Camping Site – about 5 minutes walk away. This was fine, but it took most of the day with the washing and the drying. We dried our sheets over the 
boom and several items over the rails of the boat.
Juggling the washing with everything else meant that we didn’t have a massive time slot for lunch, but with little on board to eat, we found a very nice eatery called La Douanerie not far from the boat – Bob had Moules and I had a very large salad.
We also had to secure our taxi ride to St Nazaire Airport as one of our friends had offered to fly us back to Bournemouth. This was more tricky than you might think. We hadn’t given the taxi firm much notice, but I think he was very keen to do the job – a 1.5 hour round trip for him as this airport is only 45minutes away. I was relieved that he could take us, but this meant a much earlier start, leaving La Roche Bernard at 0750; oh – and could we pay cash please?! This meant a trek into town (which is up a bit of a hill) – the first ATM we got to – was out of order. This was inside an air-conditioned room – so I left Bob in there to cool off and found the next machine which wasn’t far away. On my way round town I encountered a very pretty lacy window featuring lighthouses – very clever!
There wasn’t much time to explore La Roche Bernard, but on the way back I clambered to the top of the famous rock upon which the town is named after a Viking named Bern-hart. The views from the top looking over the river were spectacular! And here is one of two canon which are perched on top! 
Back to Boni and we finished our washing and drinking all our cold drinks, so time for a refreshing shower and then our last evening – a meal out at La Cambouse – also not far from the boat.
Cabillaud nacro with asparagus followed by a Cafe Gourmand.
We wandered back to Boni and sat quietly taking in the sights including this old gaffer: 
