Saturday 26th September – Day 74 – Port Haliguen (Quiberon)
Bob was out on his bike exploring – I think he found a Decathlon store, a fishing store and a chandlery. He was getting his fishing gear better set up. Meanwhile I was determined to get caught up on my blog, which took most of the day. It’s the uploading of the photos that does take an inordinate amount of time.
Later we went out on the bikes, this time to the other side of the peninsula to Port Maria, which is where the ferries come and go to Belle Île. It has a great beach and a real sea-side place feel to it.
On the way back we called in to the supermarket to see Monsieur Poissonier and to buy further seafood – what’s not to like?!
We packed our bikes up and stowed them once again (that’s the worst bit of having the bikes – the packing up/unpacking as they are fairly heavy to lift on and off the boat; working together on this is essential and I’m always pleased that we have made the effort, as they broaden our horizons.
Sunday 27th September – Day 75 – Port Haliguen to Sauzon & Le Palais, Belle Île
Sun-rise
Off to Sauzon today, on the North Westerly side of Belle Île; which meant leaving at 0800 to get out of the inner harbour and over the sill. Here we are leaving Port Haliguen.
We came out of the harbour and set sail with a fair Westerly wind blowing F3-4.
I love the sun over the sea…
However, the skies looked a bit ominous and we had a bit of spitty rain as we made out towards the Teignouse lighthouse. I really feel that this is one of the oddest looking lighthouses I’ve ever seen… Almost like an unfinished art-deco project, although this lighthouse was built between 1843-45. The navigation around here has to be quite exact due to shallow waters and rocks, and there are plenty of cardinal buoys to mark the way. About a mile and a half after the lighthouse, we were able to go the other (Port) tack, although this wasn’t getting us very close to our objective, so we decided to turn into the wind, take the Genoa down and made our way into Sauzon, by which time the tide had gone out.
Approaches to Sauzon:
We moored upon harbour buoys – trots (forward and aft mooring), near a group of large (40’ +) sailing boats who were all moored together in a group, this was short-lived, as one by one they departed. We launched our dinghy (no engine this time) and rowed ashore to the nearby landing pontoon.
Bienvenue a Sauzon!
We walked into town – with very few expectations as it was a Sunday – but there were several bars and cafes open, as well as a boulangerie where we bought some (very expensive) bread then into a small shop which was very stocked, so washing-up liquid and cheese were easily purchased.
The town is quite attractive with brightly painted houses and felt open to visitors, despite being a bit out of season now. The rain came in quite substantial showers, so we were feeling a bit damp and came back on board to have a bite to eat for lunch (we had disposed of the de-frosted lettuce – no longer on the menu)!
Waiting buoys outside Sauzon:
Our options were to stay put or to go SW to Le Palais (which we had visited earlier in the summer), We looked at the weather forecast. TBH, neither of us relished the next day as stair-rod type rain was forecast, and being in a port would be preferable.
We cast off from Sauzon and motored down to Le Palais – only three miles – and picked up a waiting buoy outside the harbour. Yes, I did the laying down on the deck to thread the rope through the eye on the top of the mooring buoy. The swell of the sea was a bit uncomfortable and we called up on Ch. 09 to the port (this is the same channel that all the ports use – makes it easier to remember). A ferry had just come out, and other sailing vessels were also making an exit. “Please wait (attendez)” was the request. Another ferry is arriving…. As it was – but also several other yachts just went in – no request on the radio from them. Well, life is unfair (said my grandma once to me – “the sooner you understand that, the better you’ll get on in life” – she was right, of course!).
So we waited, and eventually it was our turn to go in, only to be greeted with no way forward, the lock-keeper had lowered the footbridge to allow pedestrians across the river. We circled in the inner harbour for a little while and then the bridge lifted and the light went green, time for us to go in.
The Dory girl from the Capitainerie showed us our place (which seemed a bit tight to get into, but in fact it was good and we were right onto a pontoon (rather than alongside another boat). The weather continued to be rainy, which is actually OK, as everywhere is desperate for rain in this terrible summer of drought; so we put up two sides of our cockpit tent which attaches at the front to our sprayhood.
We looked to see where the wind (and consequently the rain) would be coming from – NE direction and put on the rear and starboard side panels.
Le Palais is a bit down-at-heel and isn’t improved by rain. Last time we were here it also rained. The wash facilities are also extremely basic in a wooden shed. We discovered some public loos (take your own loo paper please) very close – also a bit grim and home to a family of cock-roaches! Dinner on board – sausages with veg and the bar was open once again! 
Monday 28th September – Le Palais, Belle Île – Day 76
Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain – cats and dogs or if you prefer “Rain rain rain rain, beautiful rain” (do look up the track by Ladysmith Black Mambazo) – this was no-messing lots of rain, which lasted the morning. Good thing I have a good book to read and this was a delight as I got to the end of it.
After a bite to eat for lunch, we made a plan to go out for a cycle ride to the other side of the island. Off we went – Belle Île is quite a high island, so if you’re on the coast, you have to ascend. Thank goodness for our electric bikes! There wasn’t much traffic about and headed out to the Goulphar Lighthouse and then down a very wet and puddled track (very difficult to cycle on!) to Port Coton on the SW coast of the island to see the Les Aiguilles de Port-Coton or the needles of Port Coton – once famously painted by the artist Monet.
The warning before you get to the cliff-edge!
This part of the coast is called Cote Sauvage – the wild cost. Once there, I donned my waterproof against the wind to investigate the rugged rocks and steep granite cliffs. These are quite scary as the drop is about 30’ down very hard rock. The sea swirls below and the waves crash against the stone – very impressive and awesome.
The wild coast!
This part of the coast was also home to a radar station, from inside this concrete-bunker type building – now covered with graffiti! The whole trip was a windy affair, but the rain had abated and the cycle back seemed a more direct route.
We cycled into town and found a restaurant to book a table at (part of an hotel) by the quayside. We could see the next tranche of boats arriving into port – “I bet someone is put alongside us” I said – and as we got back to Boni – just that was happening – a German couple who had chartered an RM yacht for a week from La Trinite-sur-Mer. We told them that we would be leaving at 0800 in the morning, as the look would only be operational ‘til 0830. “OK” they said, “we’ll leave then as well”.
The lock timetable.
The restaurant was OK, our entrees (starters) were nice, then we both chose a steak, which wasn’t much to write about – so I won’t!
The lock on the way back:
Tuesday 29th September – Day 77 Le Palais – Hoëdic
Leaving Le Palais:
And looking back (notice the ferry in Port):
Off we went soon after 0800 – it was tight getting out of the berth and several other boats were leaving – one which seemed to come at us from behind at great speed – I asked their crew to slow down – “lentement s’il vous plait” – to which they suddenly put their bow thrusters on full speed reverse! We were ne of at least 9 boats that left the port and we hoisted the main – but the wind was disappointing – nowhere near the 15 -18 knots of wind. Hmmm – originally, as it was going to be so windy, we thought we would just pop back to Port Haliguen, but with it like this, we could make Hoëdic, an island that we’d not been to before. We rolled out the Genny and whistled! Bit by bit the wind came in, bit by bit we reduced the sails as the wind did become stronger and stronger – SE 18knots – gusting 22 knots. What a fantastic sail. We reefed down the main when it hit about 16 knots and also eventually reefed in the Genoa, more than its 2 reefs.
Passing Houat
Approaching the little, unassuming harbour, we were very much hoping to get a pontoon berth (19 in total), but they were all taken so no-can-do; instead we hooked up onto one of the visitors mooring buoys (back down, flat on the deck, picked it up straight away – professional job)!
After lunch, we launched the dinghy and I rowed to the closest landing jetty which comprised interlocking plastic blocks, clipped together (very difficult to walk elegantly across – but I guess no one was looking), which lead us to the shore. Once booked in with the charming lady in the Capitainerie, we had a very welcome shower.
Here is the island’s church – being given a fresh lick of paint! Hoëdic is a real gem of a place and a very small island – possibly even smaller than Herm in the Channel Islands and only has 100 regular residents (apparently this figure rises to 3,000 in the summer months) and consequently, the place was very quiet with few folk around – the only food shop, boulangerie and bar were all closed. We had a good wander about – they obviously like to play Petang!
The Atlantic coast and the tiny Port de la Croix – not too popular!
We walked the 800m or so from one side of the island to the other to view the Atlantic swell coming in to the alternative port – no thanks! Not in that wind direction – many reefs and buoys marking the way in and only 3 small boats in this harbour. The main source of income is from tourism in the summer months, with a small amount of fishing and we saw many large vegetable gardens – probably growing fruit and veg for their own needs.
Island encounters:
The island information told us that this island is a car-free place (although we did see tractors and one van) – mostly people walk, cycle or use hand-carts to transport things. Back on board we hunkered down for the evening & Bob made a delicious dinner:
